From "Couvert" etiquette to the secret of the local Tasca—master the rituals of dining in Portugal.
To eat in Portugal is to participate in a social ritual that has remained largely unchanged for decades. While the food is spectacular, the experience is governed by a set of "unwritten rules" that can often confuse newcomers. Here is how to navigate the table like a true local.
1. The "Couvert" Etiquette
When you sit down at a traditional restaurant, the waiter will often immediately place a small spread of bread, olives, cheese, and perhaps some pâté or ham on your table.
The Rule: This is called the Couvert. Unlike many countries where bread is complimentary, in Portugal, you only pay for what you consume. If you eat the olives, they will appear on the bill (usually just a euro or two).
The Pro Tip: If you don't want the items, simply say "Não, obrigado" (No, thank you) or leave them untouched. The waiter will whisk them away without charge, and it is not considered rude at all to send them back.
2. The Ginjinha Ritual
While wandering through historic neighborhoods like Rossio or Baixa, you will see small, standing-room-only booths with crowds gathered on the sidewalk. This is the Ginjinha ritual.
What it is: A sweet, potent liqueur made from sour cherries (ginjas), sugar, and cinnamon.
The Order: You will be asked "Com elas ou sem elas?" (With them or without them?). This refers to the alcohol-soaked cherries at the bottom of the glass. The local way is to take it with the fruit, but be careful—the cherries still have pits!
3. The "Tasca" Philosophy
To find the most authentic and best-value food, look for the Tasca. These are modest, family-run eateries characterized by paper tablecloths and a daily menu scrawled on a chalkboard or a piece of paper taped to the window.
Why it matters: In a Tasca, the Prato do Dia (Plate of the Day) is almost always the freshest choice.
The Insider Secret: If you see a line of construction workers or local office employees outside at 1:00 PM, you have found the right place. These are the "quality inspectors" of Portuguese dining.
4. Timing the Table
Portugal operates on a specific clock that is later than Northern Europe but earlier than Spain.
Lunch: This is the main event of the day, usually occurring between 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM. Many traditional kitchens close strictly at 3:00 PM to prepare for dinner.
Dinner: Most locals won't sit down before 8:00 PM. If you show up at a restaurant at 7:00 PM, you will likely be the only guest, or the doors may still be locked.
5. Tipping Culture
In Portugal, tipping is a gesture of appreciation rather than a mandatory obligation, as service is technically included in the bill.
In a Tasca or Cafe: It is standard to leave the small change, perhaps rounding up to the nearest Euro.
In Formal Dining: If the service was excellent, a tip of 5% to 10% is a sign of great satisfaction. However, you will never feel the high-pressure tipping culture found in the US or UK; 10% is considered very generous.